MAST and RIGGING
REPLACEMENT RUNNING RIGGING
We generally used 7/16" very low stretch braided dacron line for all of the running rigging. It is
available by the foot, or as a package of all of the halyards and sheets. If you send us the quick
disconnect end fittings, we will splice them on, or we can supply you with new stainless steel
quick disconnect ends for the halyards. Other sizes of dacron line are also available, at very
favorable prices.
REPLACEMENT STANDING RIGGING
Replacement standing rigging is available from World-cruiser, at very competitive prices. After
8 to 10 years the lower end swage fittings may develop hairline cracks, or broken strands. If you
can exactly measure each wire from eye to eye, new rigging with identical swaged eyes can be
supplied. If you cannot measure the wire, or as an alternative on a new installation, wire is
available with a marine eye swaged on the upper end, and the wire left long with a bare lower
end. A Norseman or Staloc fitting is available to install yourself after marking the location of the
turn-buckle on the lower end.
BOBSTAY WIRE FAILURES
Another stay that should be checked at least once a year is the bobstay, primarily the end down
at the waterline. The toggle strap or fork also corrodes, and hairline cracks develop on the
swaged fitting. A replacement bobstay is available of Sailbryte wire with new fittings swaged on
both ends.
SPLIT BACKSTAYS ATTACHED TO HULL
A number of owners have wished to do away with the boomkin, and use split backstays bolted
to the hull on either side. The chainplates are bolted to the hull just outside of the boomkin, with
a filler wedge piece of wood to hold them outside of the caprail. The backstay is cut and two
legs come down to attach to the chainplates on the hull.
FORESTAY RELEASE LEVER
A release lever is available to put on the forestay if you want to move it out of the way to be
able to tack with a genoa on the cutter rig. The lever is polished cast bronze with a stainless
clevis and pivot pins. A turnbuckle is built in with 4" of adjustment.
TURNBUCKLES
We have replacement turnbuckle barrels, but Westsail used four different type turnbuckles over
the years. We may not have replacements exactly the same as yours, but most turnbuckles
have interchangeable center bodies, except for different lengths. The toggle ends with left or
right hand threads are also available. Many of the boats also had Navtec turnbuckles. These
have a center thread rather than a center body, and the ends are barrels with internal threads
and toggle ends. Some were made with an all stainless steel center thread, and Navtec has had
many failures of these turnbuckles, due to corrosion of the thread where it meets the stainless
steel square part between the left and right hand threads. The center thread should be replaced
with a bronze one, if it has not been done already.
CHAINPLATES
The chainplates used on all of the boats is a 1/4" x 2" x 24" piece of 304 grade stainless steel.
The W-28 and W-32 have four 3/8" square holes to mount them, with 3/8" carriage bolts. The
W-42 and W-43 have five 1/2" carriage bolts. Some owners have found cracks radiating out
from the square hole, and have found it necessary to replace some of the chainplates. We have
also heard of instances where the chainplate has started to deteriorate on the backside where it
meets the hull, due to water being trapped there, and crevice corrosion starting.
BOOMKIN STAY TANG FAILURES
A major problem point on the W-32 is the boomkin stay tangs bolted to the hull. The early
boats had a 1" wide tang, with a 1/2" clearance hole for the pin on the stay, leaving less than 1/4"
of metal around the hole. Being in and out of the water, and flexed with loads, the end of this
tang can develop unseen cracks and hole elongation. After 1976, the width of the tang was
increased to 1-1/4" wide, giving enough cross section area around the hole to prevent elongation.
BOOMKIN CROSSPIECE FAILURES ON THE WESTSAIL 32
The early Westsail 32's had a wooden crosspiece on the boomkin, with a U bolt to hold the
backstay. This wood piece must be carefully checked for rot and cracking that could let the U
bolt pull out. Westsail then made a stain-less crosspiece with a 2" web. Some of this type have
bent under heavy loads, but we have not seen any of these fail. The current design has a 4"
vertical web, with a reinforcing bar below the backstay ear. We have these available for
replacing either type.
BOBSTAY FITTING
The bobstay fitting at the waterline should be carefully inspected periodically for signs of
corrosion and elec-trolysis. We have seen these eaten up by electrolysis, when the boat is
loaded enough so that the fitting is constantly in the water. We recommend that a small zinc be
attached to the lower end of the fitting to protect it from electrolysis.
BOWSPRIT ATTACHMENT AND STAYSAIL EYEBOLT
In order to control the headstay tension, the headstay must be sufficiently tight so it will not
move. The key to this is the eye band staying in one place and only one place. If the whiskers,
bobstay or bowsprit are loose, there can be movement. The load is taken by three 1/2" bronze
bolts that go through the bowsprit and deck. It is possible that the wood can be creeping aft on
the bolts under the tension, and that the rig is losing tension. We have talked to people who
have pulled the bowsprit bolts and found them to resemble a bent letter S.
The 1/2" bronze
eyebolt holding the staysail stay has broken on a number of occasions that we know of. The
stemplate that attaches to this eyebolt and the stem of the boat has also broken on the bend, if
there is any slight movement of the bowsprit. This piece should also be carefully inspected very
frequently.
RUNNING BACKSTAYS
The primary use of the running backstays is to steady the mast when using a staysail and
reefed main, without a jib up. Under these condition, the mast can pump forward where the
staysail attaches, if it does not have the aft staying of the running backs. This condition causes
the staysail stay to go very slack, and the windward performance suffers, and under extreme
conditions, could cause buckling of the mast.
TUNING THE MAST RIGGING
A step by step procedure for adjusting and tuning the standing rigging is available. At the same
time, check the critical points of the rig to prevent sudden failures.
FURLING GEAR
The furling gear has been perfected to the point that it is now nearly foolproof, and can be used
as a temporary reefing system for the headsail, as well as for furling the sail. There are many
good brands on the market, but we would recommend the two top rated ones, Profurl and
Harken.
JIFFY REEFING KIT
A written procedure for installing and using jiffy reefing on the mainboom. It was installed as a
standard item on most of the boats when they were built.
WINCH REPLACEMENT AND SPARE PARTS
Regarding upgrading the primary sheet winches, we have available large self-tailing winches.
The base diameter on these winches is usually larger than the stainless brackets bolted to the
bulwarks. We have made up stainless steel plates to bolt onto your winch brackets to
accommodate the larger winch. We have also located a source of repair parts for Barlow and
Barient winches.
BOOM VANG
To properly control and adjust the shape of the mainsail, a boom vang is almost a necessity.
The system consists of a four part block and tackle with snap hooks and a cam cleat on the lower
block, and is attached from a boom bail to down on deck. The deck location can either be on the
aft side of the base of the mast for a single point attachment, or on the aft lower chainplates on
both sides for a dual attachment.
CRUISING SPINNAKERS
The cruising, or poleless spinnaker, has proven to be an excellent sail to help your boat move
in light winds. It is easy to handle, and without the necessity of a pole, can be easily handled
with only two people aboard. The tack of the sail is connected to the end of the bowsprit with a 3
to 1 purchase vang with snap shackles. This lets you tighten the luff when reaching, and also
lets the tack rise up when running to get a fuller shape to the sail.
MAST SUPPORT PROBLEM ON WESTSAIL 32
A number of owners of Westsail 32's have complained of their rigging being continually loose
after tightening it, and also of the fiberglass surface of the cabin top mast base being dished
down. The wooden mast support post must be checked to see if it has crushed into the
underside of the deckbeam. The cabin top can push down with the load of the mast and rigging
and crush the mast post up into the deckbeam. The space under the cabin sole at the mast post
should have solid blocking down to the top of the ballast. If your boat does not have this solid
blocking, it should be installed.
MAINSHEET TRAVELER TRACK SYSTEM
With the standard block setup from the end of the boom to the boomkin, it is very difficult to
take the twist out of the mainsail, even with the use of a boom vang. Probably the best setup to
use is with a mainsheet traveler track across over the top of the hatch, with a traveler car and
control lines on either side to move the car and control the boom and sail shape. We have
available a heavy web track, bent to a curve, that can be installed over the hatch. This sits on
pods bolted to the cabintop ahead of the hatch opening.
MAST LOWERING WITH A TABERNACLE BASE
A majority of the Westsail 32's, and many of the 28's, were supplied with a tabernacle mast
base, yet most owners have never attempted to lower their mast themselves. The procedure is
not difficult, and as long as care is taken while doing it, it is a relatively safe and easy procedure,
albeit somewhat scary the first time through.
TABERNACLE MAST BASE CONVERSION
A kit is available to convert a fixed base mast to a tabernacle base mast. It is a bolt-on
assembly, and does not require welding on the mast. The bottom of the mast must be cut with a
radius on the forward side, and holes drilled for the tube and bolts.
BOOM GOOSENECK
A discussion of the various type and styles of boom goosenecks that have been used on the
Westsail masts, including a source of replacements for broken castings.
RUNNING BACKSTAYS
The primary use of the running backstays is to steady the mast when using a staysail and
reefed main, without a jib up. Under these condition, the mast can pump forward where the
staysail attaches, if it does not have the aft staying of the running backs. This condition causes
the staysail stay to go very slack, and the windward performance suffers, and under extreme
conditions, could cause buckling of the mast.
TUNING THE MAST RIGGING
A step by step procedure for adjusting and tuning the standing rigging is available. At the same
time, check the critical points of the rig to prevent sudden failures.
FURLING GEAR
The furling gear has been perfected to the point that it is now nearly foolproof, and can be used
as a temporary reefing system for the headsail, as well as for furling the sail. There are many
good brands on the market, but we would recommend the two top rated ones, Profurl and
Harken.
JIFFY REEFING KIT
A written procedure for installing and using jiffy reefing on the mainboom. It was installed as a
standard item on most of the boats when they were built.
WINCH REPLACEMENT AND SPARE PARTS
Regarding upgrading the primary sheet winches, we have available large self-tailing winches.
The base diameter on these winches is usually larger than the stainless brackets bolted to the
bulwarks.
We have made up stainless steel plates to bolt onto your winch brackets to
accommodate the larger winch.
We have also located a source of repair parts for Barlow and
Barient winches.
BOOM VANG
To properly control and adjust the shape of the mainsail, a boom vang is almost a necessity.
The system consists of a four part block and tackle with snap hooks and a cam cleat on the lower
block, and is attached from a boom bail to down on deck. The deck location can either be on the
aft side of the base of the mast for a single point attachment, or on the aft lower chainplates on
both sides for a dual attachment.
CRUISING SPINNAKERS
The cruising, or poleless spinnaker, has proven to be an excellent sail to help your boat move
in light winds. It is easy to handle, and without the necessity of a pole, can be easily handled
with only two people aboard. The tack of the sail is connected to the end of the bowsprit with a 3
to 1 purchase vang with snap shackles. This lets you tighten the luff when reaching, and also
lets the tack rise up when running to get a fuller shape to the sail.
MAST SUPPORT PROBLEM ON WESTSAIL 32
A number of owners of Westsail 32's have complained of their rigging being continually loose
after tightening it, and also of the fiberglass surface of the cabin top mast base being dished
down. The wooden mast support post must be checked to see if it has crushed into the
underside of the deckbeam. The cabin top can push down with the load of the mast and rigging
and crush the mast post up into the deckbeam. The space under the cabin sole at the mast post
should have solid blocking down to the top of the ballast. If your boat does not have this solid
blocking, it should be installed.
MAINSHEET TRAVELER TRACK SYSTEM
With the standard block setup from the end of the boom to the boomkin, it is very difficult to
take the twist out of the mainsail, even with the use of a boom vang. Probably the best setup to
use is with a mainsheet traveler track across over the top of the hatch, with a traveler car and
control lines on either side to move the car and control the boom and sail shape. We have
available a heavy web track, bent to a curve, that can be installed over the hatch. This sits on
pods bolted to the cabintop ahead of the hatch opening.
MAST LOWERING WITH A TABERNACLE BASE
A majority of the Westsail 32's, and many of the 28's, were supplied with a tabernacle mast
base, yet most owners have never attempted to lower their mast themselves. The procedure is
not difficult, and as long as care is taken while doing it, it is a relatively safe and easy procedure,
albeit somewhat scary the first time through.
TABERNACLE MAST BASE CONVERSION
A kit is available to convert a fixed base mast to a tabernacle base mast. It is a bolt-on
assembly, and does not require welding on the mast. The bottom of the mast must be cut with a
radius on the forward side, and holes drilled for the tube and bolts.
BOOM GOOSENECK
A discussion of the various type and styles of boom goosenecks that have been used on the
Westsail masts, including a source of replacements for broken castings.
RUNNING BACKSTAYS
The primary use of the running backstays is to steady the mast when using a staysail and
reefed main, without a jib up. Under these condition, the mast can pump forward where the
staysail attaches, if it does not have the aft staying of the running backs. This condition causes
the staysail stay to go very slack, and the windward performance suffers, and under extreme
conditions, could cause buckling of the mast.
TUNING THE MAST RIGGING
A step by step procedure for adjusting and tuning the standing rigging is available. At the same
time, check the critical points of the rig to prevent sudden failures.
FURLING GEAR
The furling gear has been perfected to the point that it is now nearly foolproof, and can be used
as a temporary reefing system for the headsail, as well as for furling the sail. There are many
good brands on the market, but we would recommend the two top rated ones, Profurl and
Harken.
JIFFY REEFING KIT
A written procedure for installing and using jiffy reefing on the mainboom. It was installed as a
standard item on most of the boats when they were built.
WINCH REPLACEMENT AND SPARE PARTS
Regarding upgrading the primary sheet winches, we have available large self-tailing winches.
The base diameter on these winches is usually larger than the stainless brackets bolted to the
bulwarks. We have made up stainless steel plates to bolt onto your winch brackets to
accommodate the larger winch. We have also located a source of repair parts for Barlow and
Barient winches.
BOOM VANG
To properly control and adjust the shape of the mainsail, a boom vang is almost a necessity.
The system consists of a four part block and tackle with snap hooks and a cam cleat on the lower
block, and is attached from a boom bail to down on deck. The deck location can either be on the
aft side of the base of the mast for a single point attachment, or on the aft lower chainplates on
both sides for a dual attachment.
CRUISING SPINNAKERS
The cruising, or poleless spinnaker, has proven to be an excellent sail to help your boat move
in light winds. It is easy to handle, and without the necessity of a pole, can be easily handled
with only two people aboard. The tack of the sail is connected to the end of the bowsprit with a 3
to 1 purchase vang with snap shackles. This lets you tighten the luff when reaching, and also
lets the tack rise up when running to get a fuller shape to the sail.
MAST SUPPORT PROBLEM ON WESTSAIL 32
A number of owners of Westsail 32's have complained of their rigging being continually loose
after tightening it, and also of the fiberglass surface of the cabin top mast base being dished
down. The wooden mast support post must be checked to see if it has crushed into the
underside of the deckbeam. The cabin top can push down with the load of the mast and rigging
and crush the mast post up into the deckbeam. The space under the cabin sole at the mast post
should have solid blocking down to the top of the ballast. If your boat does not have this solid
blocking, it should be installed.
MAINSHEET TRAVELER TRACK SYSTEM
With the standard block setup from the end of the boom to the boomkin, it is very difficult to
take the twist out of the mainsail, even with the use of a boom vang. Probably the best setup to
use is with a mainsheet traveler track across over the top of the hatch, with a traveler car and
control lines on either side to move the car and control the boom and sail shape. We have
available a heavy web track, bent to a curve, that can be installed over the hatch. This sits on
pods bolted to the cabintop ahead of the hatch opening.
MAST LOWERING WITH A TABERNACLE BASE
A majority of the Westsail 32's, and many of the 28's, were supplied with a tabernacle mast
base, yet most owners have never attempted to lower their mast themselves. The procedure is
not difficult, and as long as care is taken while doing it, it is a relatively safe and easy procedure,
albeit somewhat scary the first time through.
TABERNACLE MAST BASE CONVERSION
A kit is available to convert a fixed base mast to a tabernacle base mast. It is a bolt-on
assembly, and does not require welding on the mast. The bottom of the mast must be cut with a
radius on the forward side, and holes drilled for the tube and bolts.
BOOM GOOSENECK
A discussion of the various type and styles of boom goosenecks that have been used on the
Westsail masts, including a source of replacements for broken castings.
WESTSAIL SERVICE MANUAL TOPICS:
[Back To Home Port]